Mastering Focus Stacking for Landscape Photography Using Helicon Focus and Lightroom

Jessica Santos
May 5
4 min read

If you haven't already check out our blog on focus stacking in Adobe Photoshop (linked below), in this blog we are going to be using Helicon Focus to focus stack our images.

Helicon Focus is specialized software designed for focus stacking, which is a technique us landscape photographers use to create images that are sharp from foreground to background. This is done by combining multiple images focused at different distances, Helicon Focus helps us produce detailed, high-quality photographs with exceptional depth of field, far beyond what's achievable in a single shot... and sometimes better than Photoshop (but shhhh! don't tell them that)

In this guide, I'll walk you through the steps of using Helicon Focus to enhance your landscape photography with focus stacking.

Taken in the badlands of New Mexico, using a wide angle low and close to our foreground subject requires focus-stacking if you want the image sharp throughout.

1. Capturing Images in the Field

We have to have images to stack in order to create a focus-stack. So if you haven't read how to focus stack in Adobe Photoshop, let's recap how to capture the images we need in the field, using one of these two methods depending on what camera you are using.

Use a tripod to ensure stability.
Switch your camera to manual focus and exposure settings.
Use an aperture of f/8 to f/16 to get maximum depth of field without sacrificing quality.
Take multiple shots, focusing progressively from foreground to background. Typically, 3-7 photos are sufficient.
Scenes that are more complex (i.e. wildflower fields, cholla gardens) require more images to stack.

OPTIONAL: Using In-Camera Focus Bracketing (Focus Shift Shooting)

Some modern cameras offer a built-in focus bracketing feature, often called "focus shift shooting" or "focus bracketing." This function automatically captures a series of images with incremental changes in focus distance. Here's how to use it:

Set your camera on a tripod and compose your shot.
Make sure to dial in your aperture, white balance, shutter speed and ISO all manually prior to entering the focus bracketing menu.
Your camera has to be in automatic focus for this, and you always want to focus on the point closest to the camera to start. This means if you re-shoot the sequence remember to refocus closest to the lens.
Navigate to your camera's focus bracketing or focus shift shooting menu (check your camera's manual, as terminology varies).
Adjust the number of shots to 999, don't worry the camera will stop once it reaches infinity focus, and this insure you don't take too little shots.
Set the step width to 2-3, for scenes that need less shots 3 will suffice, for more complex shots set it to 2, this will result in more shots overall, but will make sure you have all the shots you need.
If your camera asks for shooting start time or time in between shots, set the start time to 2" and set the in between shot time to the minimum amount.
Start the shooting sequence, and your camera will automatically capture multiple images at different focus points.

2. Export Images from Lightroom to Helicon Focus

What's great about Helicon Focus is that it works seamlessly with Adobe Lightroom Classic. I start by doing some global adjustments in Lightroom and then continue to Helicon Focus, This is completely optional and note that when the photos go into Helicon Focus they will not show your edits until exported back in Adobe Lightroom Classic

Open Lightroom.
Select your images by holding down shift or command/control
Navigate to File > Export
Select Helicon Focus from the top dropdown menu and make sure your file type is set to Original if you have the "Pro Package" or DNG if you have the "Lite Package" version of Helicon Focus
ALTERNATIVELY, you can pen Helicon Focus and click "File" → "Add images..." or drag and drop your images directly into the interface.

3. Choose a Rendering Method

Helicon Focus offers three rendering methods:

Method A (Weighted Average): Great for landscapes with smoother transitions between focus points.
Method B (Depth Map): Ideal for sharp edges and high contrast details (common in landscapes with prominent foreground elements).
Method C (Pyramid): Works best for scenes with complex textures or overlapping details.

For images that have wildflowers or cacti or lots of intersecting branches, leaves, flowers, etc. us Method C. For images like sand dunes, rocks, mud cracks, etc. use Method B. We never use Method A.

Render Your Image

Select your method, then click "Render."
For any of the render methods we use all the default settings for things like radius, smoothing, etc.
Watch as Helicon Focus processes the images. This usually takes just a few seconds to a minute, depending on your computer and number of images.

5. Refining the Results

After rendering, review your image closely:

If you notice areas that aren't perfectly sharp, use the "Retouching" tab to manually blend sections from your original images into the composite.
Once done, you can navigate to File > Save and select DNG or TIFF and then close Helicon Focus to export directly back to Lightroom
Export back to Adobe Lightroom Classic or Adobe Photoshop for further editing.

Pro Tips for Optimal Results

Consistency is Key: Use consistent exposure, white balance, and ISO settings for every shot in the stack.
Avoid Moving Subjects: Windy days causing motion in grass or trees can complicate stacking. Aim for calmer conditions.
Overlap Focus Points Slightly: Ensuring overlap between focused areas helps Helicon Focus blend more naturally.

Focus stacking with Helicon Focus can dramatically elevate the quality and depth of your landscape photos, ensuring your images are crisp from foreground to horizon. A little patience and practice go a long way. Now, get out there, experiment, and capture landscapes sharper than you've ever imagined!

If you're new to focus Stacking check out our other blog on how to focus stack using Adobe Photoshop.