How to Photograph the Milky Way: A Complete Guide to Night Sky Photography
- Ryan Oswald
- May 9
- 12 min read
Updated: 6 days ago
Struggling with blurry stars or noisy skies? This guide walks you through the exact Milky Way camera settings that produce clean, properly exposed Milky Way photos with sharp stars and accurate color. Whether you’re just starting in astrophotography or refining your setup, you’ll learn proven camera settings and techniques that consistently deliver reliable night sky results.
In this guide, you’ll get a step-by-step breakdown of what settings to use, why they matter, and how to troubleshoot in the field. From ISO and shutter speed to white balance and stacking, this is your blueprint for dependable Milky Way shots.
Whether you’re preparing for your first dark sky shoot or want to build more confidence shooting solo at night, these best practices will help you shoot clean, crisp, and fully usable images of the Milky Way.
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Quick Settings Summary
If you're only interested in the proper settings for photographing the Milky Way, we got you covered. Use these Milky Way camera settings as a starting point on your next shoot.
Best Milky Way Camera Settings
Manual Camera Mode
Aperture: f/2.8
ISO: 12,800
Shutter Speed:
14mm - 8 seconds
16mm - 6 seconds
20mm - 5 seconds
24mm - 4 seconds
35mm - 3 seconds
50mm - 2 seconds
(These times will slightly vary depending on your camera body. For the most accurate shutter speeds, use PhotoPill's 'Accurate' setting under Spot Stars.)
White Balance: 3750 - 4250 Kelvin
Manual Focus
Use Remote Shutter or 2 Second Delay
Shoot 25 images in a row with 2 seconds in between each shot
Long Exposure Noise Reduction Off
Why These Settings Work
Before diving into each setting, it’s important to understand why these values are the gold standard for Milky Way photography. Shooting at night is nothing like daytime photography. Your camera is dealing with near-total darkness, stars that move through your frame and colors that can be easily distorted by poor settings.
Each of the values above is carefully chosen to:
Let in the maximum amount of light without overexposing stars
Freeze the movement of stars to avoid trails
Control noise levels through a balance of ISO, stacking and exposure
Capture natural color tones in the night sky
The Milky Way is a moving subject. The Earth rotates, and that movement is visible even over a few seconds. That’s why shutter speed is tied to your lens’s focal length and why we aim for wide apertures and high ISOs in these Milky Way camera settings.
Just missing focus slightly gives you dramatically different results.
Understanding the reasoning behind each setting will help you problem-solve in the field. Can’t shoot at f/2.8? You’ll know what to adjust. Getting star trails at 6 seconds? You’ll know why.
Step-by-Step Milky Way Camera Settings
Set Your Camera to Manual Mode
Switching your camera to Manual Mode is the first and most important step in Milky Way photography. At night, your camera's auto modes are not reliable. It can’t properly meter the scene and it will usually choose settings that make your stars too dark, your sky too noisy or everything blurry.
Manual mode gives you full control over aperture, shutter speed and ISO...the exact combination you need for clean, sharp and repeatable results.
If you're new to shooting in manual, don’t stress. Once you practice these Milky Way camera settings a few times, they’ll become second nature.
Choose an Aperture of f/2.8 or Wider
Shooting the Milky Way means working in extremely low light. To gather as much light as possible, the best aperture for Milky Way images is f/2.8 or wider.
The wider the aperture, the more light your camera can collect in the short exposure window needed to avoid star trails. An aperture of f/2.8 strikes a good balance between light-gathering and sharpness. Most astrophotography lenses are built around this value for a reason.
If your lens doesn’t open to f/2.8, use its widest available setting. You may need to increase ISO slightly to compensate, but don’t let a slower lens stop you.
Lens Tip:
Prime lenses like a 14mm f/2.8 or 24mm f/1.4 are popular choices for night sky photography. They're sharp wide open and perform better in low light than most kit zooms.
Use ISO 12,800 (or Adjust Based on Your Camera)
In Milky Way photography, your ISO setting controls how sensitive your camera is to light. To properly expose stars and the galactic core in a very dark sky, you’ll often need to crank ISO up to 12,800.
This ISO setting is one of the most critical parts of your Milky Way camera setup. It affects exposure, noise levels, and overall image quality, especially when stacking isn’t an option.
ISO Adjustment Tip:
If your camera struggles with ISO 12,800, try starting at 6400 or 8000 and adjust in post. Slight underexposure is better than blown highlights or extreme noise.
Single Frame vs Stacked ISO comparison noise for Milky Way
Match Shutter Speed to Your Focal Length
How to Avoid Star Trails
Stars may look still to the naked eye, but the Earth is rotating...fast. That movement becomes visible in long exposures, causing star trails instead of sharp pinpoints of light. The solution is to match your shutter speed to your focal length so you can freeze the stars in place. The longer your lens, the shorter your shutter speed needs to be.
Use this rule of thumb to avoid star trailing:
14mm – 8 seconds
16mm – 6 seconds
20mm – 5 seconds
24mm – 4 seconds
35mm – 3 seconds
50mm – 2 seconds
(These times may vary slightly based on your camera’s sensor size. For the most accurate result, use PhotoPills’ “Spot Stars” feature to calculate it precisely.)
If you notice streaking stars or slightly blurred detail, your exposure is probably too long. Drop your shutter speed by a second or two and raise your ISO slightly to compensate.
What about the 500 Rule?
The old “500 Rule” (500 ÷ focal length = max shutter speed) is an awful starting point, modern cameras and high-res sensors tend to need stricter limits. The chart above is more conservative and much more reliable for sharp results.
If you want to remember a simple rule, I've found the "200 Rule" (200 ÷ focal length = max shutter speed) a good starting point.
Star Trails still occur with a shutter speed of 20 seconds at 14mm. Even at 10 seconds with 14mm, you can see slight star trailing in the image on the right.
Set White Balance Between 3750K and 4250K
Getting white balance right is key to making your Milky Way shots look natural. Auto White Balance often adds strange color casts, making the sky appear too blue or too orange.
To keep star colors accurate and skies neutral, set a manual Kelvin value between 3750K and 4250K. This range preserves magentas and purples in the galactic core while avoiding unnatural tints.
If your photo looks too blue, raise the Kelvin. If it looks too orange, lower it slightly. You can fine-tune in RAW, but starting with the right balance saves time later.
This is also a creative decision. The true white balance of the sky leans warm, but most people expect a cooler-toned image. Trust your eye, and choose the look that fits your style.
Personally, I shoot at 3850K or use the Fluorescent preset when speed matters.
Can’t set Kelvin manually?
If your camera doesn’t let you dial in a specific Kelvin number, use the Daylight or Tungsten preset as a rough starting point.
Pro Tip:
Using a consistent white balance also helps when stacking multiple frames later. If each image has a different color cast, your final stacked image will be harder to correct cleanly.
How to Get Sharp Focus on Stars at Night
Focusing at night is one of the most frustrating parts of dialing in your Milky Way camera settings, especially if you're relying on autofocus. Most camera's autofocus doesn’t work well in the dark. Your camera will hunt endlessly or lock onto the wrong point.
That’s why manual focus is the only consistently reliable option when shooting the night sky.
Here’s How to Focus for Milky Way Photography
Switch to Manual Focus on your lens or body.
Point your camera at a star or distant light. Try using some of the dimmer stars to really pin point your focus.
Use live view, magnify to 10x and slowly turn the focus ring until the star is the smallest, sharpest point of light.
Take a test shot and zoom in. If the stars look like blobs or have color fringes, keep fine-tuning.
Don’t Trust the Infinity Mark
Many lenses are not calibrated perfectly, so “∞” isn’t always accurate. Always double-check by magnifying in live view or reviewing your test shots at 100%.
Focus Peaking
If your camera supports it, focus peaking can help highlight edges in low light and get your focus really dialed in.
Avoid Star Blur With a Remote or Delay Timer
Once your camera is focused and the right Milky Way settings are dialed in, the last thing you want to do is introduce blur by physically pressing the shutter button. Even the slightest vibration can ruin an otherwise sharp Milky Way frame. To avoid this, if your camera does not have a built-in intervalometer, use one of two simple solutions:
Option 1: Remote Shutter Release
A wireless or cable remote lets you trigger your camera without touching it. Most remotes are small, affordable and ideal for shooting sequences without adding shake.
Option 2: 2-Second Delay Timer
If you don’t have a remote, set a 2-second delay in your camera’s drive mode. This gives the camera a moment to stabilize after your finger leaves the shutter button.
Both options work, but if you plan to stack images or shoot star trails later, a remote will save time and make your shooting process smoother.
Bonus: Intervalometers
If your camera supports it or you have an advanced remote, use an intervalometer to automatically shoot 25 frames in a row with consistent timing. This is a huge timesaver when shooting stacks or timelapses.
How to Stack Night Sky Images for Less Noise and Better Quality
Even with the best settings, high ISO shots of the Milky Way can still come out grainy. That’s where stacking comes in.
By taking multiple exposures of the same scene and combining them in post-processing, you can dramatically reduce noise while boosting detail. Stacking lets you keep your high ISO settings for light capture, then clean everything up after.
Why Stacking Works
Each frame contains random noise, but the stars stay in the same place (if aligned correctly). When you stack 25 images, the consistent detail is reinforced while the noise gets averaged out.
How to Shoot for Stacking
Keep your settings the same across all exposures
Turn Long Exposure Noise Reduction Off
Use a remote or 2-second timer to minimize movement
Shoot 25 images in a row, spaced about 2 seconds apart
Do not move the camera during the sequence
Recommended Software for Stacking
Mac: Starry Landscape Stacker ($39.99)
Windows: Sequator (free)
These programs align the stars, blend the exposures and produce a clean base image ready for editing.
Single Frame vs what's possible with a clean, stacked Milky Way night sky.
Pro Tip:
If you’re not stacking yet, start now. It’s one of the easiest ways to improve image quality without buying new gear.
Essential Gear for Milky Way Photography
You don’t need a ton of gear to shoot the Milky Way, but the right setup makes a big difference, especially when you're working in the dark for hours at a time. Here’s what I recommend bringing to every night shoot:
Camera and Lens
A DSLR or mirrorless camera that shoots in RAW
A wide-angle lens with at least f/2.8 aperture (14mm, 20mm or 24mm)
Tripod and Remote Setup
A solid, stable tripod is essential. I personally love my Slik Tripod and think they're the best bang for your buck.
Avoid center columns and extend legs fully for better stability
If it’s windy, hang your bag from the center hook for extra weight
If your camera supports it, a built-in intervalometer is ideal for stacking
Use a wired or wireless remote or your camera’s 2-second timer
Extra Gear and Apps to Bring
Night photography eats battery life fast (Cold weather makes it worse)
Bring at least 2–3 fully charged batteries
PhotoPills or Stellarium for planning your shoot
Clear Outside for cloud forecasts
Headlamp (When alone, red light mode is great to preserve night vision. Avoid using red light when shooting with others, though. Red light is an image breaker and impossible to edit out...at least a white light can sometimes add to or be edited out if you blast your friend while they're still open)
Fix These Common Milky Way Photography Mistakes
Even with the right gear and settings, a few small missteps can ruin an otherwise great night of shooting. The good news? Every one of these mistakes is easy to fix once you know what to look for.
Star Trails from Too-Long Exposures
If your stars look stretched or smeared, your shutter speed is too long for your focal length. Always refer back to the focal length chart and err on the conservative side.
Blurry Focus
Relying on autofocus or trusting the lens’s infinity mark almost always results in soft stars. Use manual focus, live view and zoom in to get pinpoint sharpness.
Underexposed Skies from Poor ISO for Night Photography
If your sky looks dull or black, your image is likely underexposed. Don’t be afraid to push your ISO higher (10,000–12,800) and correct noise later with stacking or post-processing. Mastering ISO for night photography is key to clean Milky Way exposures.
Shaky Images from Touching the Camera
Even a tiny bump can blur stars in a 4–8 second exposure. Always use a remote shutter or 2-second delay to keep your hands off the camera.
Dew on the Lens
If your stars start looking soft halfway through your session, check for fog or dew the lens. A lens heater or hand warmer wrapped around the barrel solves this instantly.
Incorrect White Balance
Auto WB can turn your sky green, orange or poop brown. Set it manually between 3750K and 4250K, and shoot in RAW to fine-tune later.
Pro Tip:
Take 1–2 test shots every time you recompose or tweak settings. Zoom in fully and check the corners of your frame. The difference between a “meh” photo and a portfolio image is often just one adjustment.
Main Takeaway
Out of the entire Milky Way Camera Settings Guide, I hope you take away one thing. Sharp focused stars are the most important. Noise is not an issue with post processing help, but no amount of editing will make your focus on the stars sharper.
Next Steps for Milky Way Photography
Now that you know the settings, it’s time to put them to work under a dark sky. Practice these techniques on your next shoot and refer back to this guide anytime you need to troubleshoot in the field. If you want guided support, consider joining one of our night photography workshops where we walk through this process in real time.
Master these Milky Way settings on location with expert guidance and hands-on coaching.
Milky Way Photography FAQs
What are the best Milky Way camera settings for beginners?
Start with manual mode, aperture at f/2.8, ISO 6400 to 12,800, and use the shutter speed chart based on your focal length. These Milky Way camera settings provide a consistent starting point even for entry-level gear.
What month is best to photograph the Milky Way?
In the Northern Hemisphere, April through September offers the best views of the Milky Way core. Peak visibility happens from May to July, when the galactic core rises earlier and stays visible longer.
Can I shoot the Milky Way with a kit lens?
Yes, but with limitations. Most kit lenses have a maximum aperture of f/3.5 to f/5.6, which won’t let in much light. You’ll need to raise your ISO higher and reduce shutter time. For better results, upgrade to a fast prime or wide-angle lens at f/2.8 or wider.
Do I need a star tracker?
No. Everything in this guide is optimized for non-tracked Milky Way shots. If you plan to shoot deep-sky objects or long single exposures, a tracker helps. But for most wide-field Milky Way images, you can shoot with the right camera settings and stacking.
What’s the best ISO for older cameras?
If your camera struggles at ISO 12,800, try shooting at ISO 3200 or 6400, slightly underexpose, and then brighten in post. Pair that with image stacking to control noise while preserving star detail.
What apps do you recommend for planning?
PhotoPills – For planning location, timing and field of view
Clear Outside – For cloud forecasts
Stellarium – For tracking stars and core visibility by date
How do I find a dark enough location?
Use light pollution maps (like darksitefinder.com or the PhotoPills map layer) to find Bortle Class 1–4 skies. Look for locations 30+ minutes away from major cities with minimal light domes on the horizon.
How many photos should I take for stacking?
Aim for a square root number (9, 16, 25, 36...there is a scientific noise to signal ratio reasoning that requires someone far smarter than me to explain) with consistent framing, focus and settings. This gives your stacking software enough data to clean up noise and boost detail.
Do I have to shoot in RAW?
Yes. Shooting in RAW preserves all the exposure and color data, which gives you full control when editing. JPEG files throw away too much information and are harder to recover in post.
Can I shoot the Milky Way with the Moon in the Sky?
When the moon is in the sky, it's not usually the most ideal night sky. You can still capture the Milky Way with some moon, but only when there is a small sliver and even then, the sky is washed out some. It's best to plan your Milky Way night shoots around the new moon or when the moon has set.
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